Why Chennai? I say, Why Not Chennai

This is not my first visit to Tamil Nadu. I have been to Pondicherry, Ooty, Yercaud, Trichy, Hoganekkal, Kodaikanal, Salem, and Kanyakumari. (That’s a lot of places covered in a single state, isn’t it?) I love the state.

This is my first visit to Chennai. In 34 years. And I am pretty sure my last.

Why did I choose to go to Chennai? Why would anyone in their sane mind want to go there for a week-long family vacation? Don’t people go there out of compulsion, usually work? That was the response we got from family & friends. Sathya’s colleague (a Northie) was flabbergasted & asked, “But kyun? Koi aur jagah nai mila? Itne saare achche places hai?” It is a city for forced transfer, not holiday or sightseeing.

I don’t know about that. How could I form an opinion about a place/people I never saw or met? I have a long list of places I want to see in India (no money to go see ‘countries’). Among the Indian metros, I was yet to visit Calcutta & Chennai. Both these places are known for their cultural & literary heritage. Both are still largely dominated by their own kind; the population is still very much local & hence, in that sense, the experience authentic. Both these cities were once the seat of power – political, economic & social – thanks to the British Raj & the kings who ruled before them.

I have a fascination for things connected with our colonial history. On the 2 occasions I visited Delhi, I fell in love with it. Every road, every pillar, every stone in Delhi seemed to tell a story of a martyr/freedom fighter, of political struggles or some event from the pages of history. I loved that about Delhi. I was like a wide-eyed schoolgirl in a Barbie shop. I had travelled & explored Delhi ALONE – both times - & was so mesmerized by it; I cared two hoots for its “most unsafe Indian city for women” tag.

I wanted to see Chennai from a long time. Just 6 hours away, it is the nearest metro to Bangalore & that was a logistically compelling reason too. Moreover, it is the city with the longest recorded history. I wanted to feel and experience the ethos of the place.

So off we packed our bags & set off on a trip. From 27^th Sept to 2^nd Oct.

Did I like what I saw? Did Chennai make me crave for more? Will I refer it to other first time travelers? Did I bid a tearful goodbye when I left its land to return home? Do I miss it now as I think about it?

In the next post! :)

A Visit to Mahabalipuram

I had been away for a week on a trip to Mahabalipuram (Tamil Nadu). This post (and presumably, the others that will follow in the month of October) is on my experiences during the vacation.

Our resort was on ECR Road, Vadanemmeli Village, Chengalpat Thaluk in Kancheepuram District. This is 12 km from Mahabalipuram. And 40 kms from Chennai. And 0.5 Km from Crocodile Bank. So obviously our first stop was the Crocodile Bank.
The Crocodile Bank is a crocodile research & breeding centre.

Can you spot the two baby crocodiles in the tank below?

You can see many species of African & Indian alligators & crocodiles bred in custody here.

The next day morning we set off to Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram as named after the king Mamalla.

We took the share van. Rs 10 each for a one way ride.

As soon as we got down from the van, and started looking around as to where to start from, taxi guys came offering rides. Rs 350/- auto guy said for seeing 7 things in the town. We ignored & walked on. And on. Towards the temple. The street leading to the temple reminds you of the one in Belur (Karnataka).

As usual, Kashmiri shops with their beaded necklaces on display from their glass doors were there here too. A taxi guy told us to hire a bike for Rs 150-200/- & see the places & directed us where you’d find one. We walked back. All the way back! We asked a small shop guy. He was tinkering on one of his mopeds, didn’t look up & said gruffly, "Only moped. Rs 250”. What!? I immediately thought of Goa! Oh Goa! Go learn a lesson or two from the Goans, i muttered under my breath to the rude fella.

The guy in the shop opposite, with his leg one atop another, said, "No bike, only moped. Rs 350". "Where can we find another shop?" No answer. Just an expression of “Am I sitting here to help you?” We moved to a tourist agency. He had cars/bikes everything. Rs 500 for car for 2 hours, will show 7 things. By then the auto guy started circling us again. And since we'd realized that we couldn’t possibly see around the town on our two feet plus with our 5 year old daughter with us, we bargained & from Rs 350 he came down to Rs 250.

The first stop was the Five Rathas. They are full-size models of different styles of temples known to Dravidian builders of the 7th century A.D. They are unfinished & not used for worship.

Each wall is cut from a SINGLE ROCK & contain images from Hindu scriptures, alongside clowns & dancers. AMAZING!

Then he showed us Arjuna's Penance. It is said to the world's largest bas-relief. The carved scene depicts Arjuna, doing penance to Lord Shiva. Around him are various images, including snakes coiled in battle, jesters with drums, & elephants in procession.

This is my fav snap - the monkeys picking on each other

The Krishna’s Butter Ball - gravity defying. It has stood like this for ages now.

Next he showed us the beautiful Shore Temple.

The Five Rathas, the Shore Temple, & Arjuna's Penance are all works of the Pallava dynasty.

The idol of the sleeping Vishnu inside the Shore Temple. It is so breezy and cool inside here.

The stone temple has survived the sea's fury for 12 centuries, outlasting other temples along the shore. So this beach site is believed to be a lucky one.

Next was the Lighthouse & the Cave Temple

Mahabalipuram is famous for monuments built during the Pallava Dynasty & the temples are in the form of rock cut caves.

On the way back from the Lighthouse,

we found a group of goats. I tiptoed towards one, thinking it might be startled & run away.It didn't! So i held on to it :) Sathya felt hungry just looking at it! Such tender meat!

Just 2 hours drive from Chennai, Mamallapuram, on the Bay of Bengal, stands apart from the city's jostle & is quite unhurried. Did we like it? Oh yes! Worth a visit? Definitely.